When I landed in Reykjavik, I honestly thought that nowhere could resemble the moon more. I arrived in mid January, when the sun barely rose above the horizon and the whole of Iceland was in a semi darkness. The daylight hours were short with first light at 11:30 am and then disappearing a mere 4 hours later. One might say this is a bleak and cold existence that breeds unhappiness and loneliness, but Iceland is so different geographically and socially to anywhere else on earth, you can’t help but be fascinated and enthralled.
Reykjavik is the starting place of most travellers to Iceland and it is from here that you can start trips to see the Northern Lights, The Golden Circle, Gullfoss, The Blue Lagoon and volcanic valleys, among other activities. However, the city itself should not be overlooked. It is a young and vibrant city that has adapted to its bizarre daylight hours, whether that be 20 hours or only four. There is far more to Reykjavik and the surrounding area than the Northern Lights (although they are very special so you would be forgiven if they take centre stage). Iceland is quite literally the land of fire and ice. From glacial plains to volcanic valleys and ridges, there is plenty of landscape to discover if you are a keen fan of Westeros.
It might feel sometimes that the Icelanders have a bit of a raw deal when it comes to climate but they make it work in the most wonderful of fashions. You are bound to have a few first times in Iceland.
What to Pack:
It’s cold. I don’t think I have ever been so cold as when I was standing on the edge of Gullfoss falls, where every inch of me hurt with the cold and my fingers wouldn’t move.
Thermals are essential. If you are planning on seeing the Northern Lights, there is a chance you will miss them if you are too cold to leave the car/bus. Merino wool base layers will help to keep you insulated and warm on the inside.
In all honesty, a ski jacket is very appropriate and I would have packed one but I was unprepared. In any case, you will need an outer layer that is not only snow and water resistant but also wind proof as thats where most of the chill factor comes from.
Take snow shoes. Don’t think any old pair of boots will do because they won’t. I ended up having to buy boots there because I was consistently slipping over on the ice and having to duck into cafes to defrost my feet. Look out for boots that are fur lined and with good tread.
Basically, pack all snow gear and a camera!
What to do in Reykjavik:
Climb the Hallgrímskirkja: Reykjavik is extraordinary and while it may not be your number one sight seeing priority while in Iceland, it is definitely worth the time. The city itself is young and vibrant with colourful houses that stick out of the snowy landscape and are a delight to walk among. They are best view however from the top of the Cathedral, a masterpiece of strangeness in itself.
Watch the sunrise: If you aren’t normally an early riser and find it hard to see a sunrise you are in luck because you will probably be able to manage one at 11am. Roaming the streets in the darkness of 10am is a strange experience but make it worthwhile and stop for breakfast in one of the many cute cafes or bakeries on the way to the Observatory. From here you can watch the sun colour the fjords and snow covered peaks into blazing pink and orange as the sun comes up at 11.There is also a coffee shop here, although the coffee is expensive and fairly dreadful.
Visit the City Baths: Sure these aren’t the Blue Lagoon, but the baths the locals frequent each day. You can get in cheap and steam all day. Its a crazy feeling, sitting in outdoor steaming pools with snow all around. Indulge in a massage.
Go on a Golden Circle Tour: Even if you loath tours, this is pretty spectacular. The tour takes in Gullfoss falls, Geysir, the tectonic divide of North America and Europe, breath taking views and often Icelandic Horses. Of course this is possible solo or privately but hiring a car in Iceland is extremely expensive and unless you are an experienced snow and ice driver, dangerous.
Where to Eat:
Icelandic Fish and Chips: Exactly as the name suggests, fish and chips with a Icelandic twist of spelt batter and sauces. Tryggvagata 11, Reykjavik 101, Iceland
A Toast to Iceland
below blue mountain summits,
of swans, of salmon leaping where
the silver water plummets,
of glaciers swelling broad and bare
above earth’s fiery sinews —-
the Lord pour out his largess there
as long as earth continues!
The Northern Lights:
The Northern Lights warrant their own section because they are exceptional. When you see them, it’s like nothing else on Earth you will ever see again. Its eery and magical and completely captivating. Here are a few things you should know before trying to seek them out.
- They aren’t as easy to find as one might think. The Auroras are natural phenomenon of gas in the atmospheric layers and as such are hard to predict. Conditions have to be pretty perfect in order to see them; the colder, darker and clearer the better. That being said, they can sometimes appear randomly over Reykjavik even with light population and sometimes won’t appear at all on perfect nights out in the ice fields. Its important to book more than one nights stay in Iceland/Reykjavik if you are dedicated to seeing them as it might take a few nights trying. Most tours offer a condition that if you don’t see the lights you can return for free until you do. Remember the guilds will do their best to find the lights so no one leaves unhappy.
- The lights often look better on camera. If and when you do see the lights, they are spectacular. It’s impossible to describe the awe of seeing colours literally dancing across the sky. However, the human eye fails a little bit when compared to a camera, and the lights show up more vividly through a lens. You will often see then through a camera before you will in real life.
- Have the right camera settings. You will not be able to see the lights on a phone camera or any small point and shoot. DSLR’s are the best for capturing the lights and the guilds will let you know what are the best settings to see them. Even while you wait for the lights, you will be able to capture some pretty epic star shots. If you don’t have a camera then make friends with tour buddies and ask them to send them yours. The guilds also often carry cameras and are happy to send their images on too.
- It’s extremely cold and tiring. The tours happen late at night when it is the darkest. It is also the coldest time, and you go far out into the ice fields to escape light pollution. For that reason, it is freezing cold so pack warm and bring snacks. You could be sitting outside for a few hours so a thermos might be a good idea too. It is a waiting game so don’t be impatient.
- Remember what you are seeing. These lights are legendary and on the bucket lists of many travellers. They are mythic and hold special places in folklore, history, mythology and science. If you are lucky enough to see them, remember they aren’t just a great Instagram picture, but a natural wonder that has baffled and amazed humans for hundreds of thousands of years, and that’s pretty damn special.
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