The only way to arrive in Venice is by train, almost the only way anyway. But by in arriving the slightly less glamorous way you are treated for your troubles. There is nothing like walking out of San Lucia station after a 10 hours over night train. It’s possibly the best view from any train station in the world. You literally step out into a surreal never-never land of bustling maritime life. Most cities you are greeted with choking streets of traffic and mad one way systems but in Venice it’s canals pumping with gondolas, luxury water taxis and vaporetti. Can you even believe this place exists? Surprising as it is, this expensively gorgeous city on water is actually tangible and despite the fact that 20 million people visit every year, you will always have a unique experience.
This was my second trip to the fabled city and it couldn’t have been more different. Yes, I saw many of the same sights and even by chance stayed in the same area but I gained a new outlook. I learnt a few words of Italian, and we even managed to spend less that 3 euros on lunch for 3. Quite a feat if you ask anyone who has been to Venice, it’s not Italy’s most expensive city for nothing!
Venice however holds a certain perfection, gathered from hundreds of years of history, wars, trade and power. The sights are in abundance, of course there are the obvious choices of San Marco, Palazzo Ducale and the Bridge of Sighs but this area is so sticky hot with tourist that while stunning, it’s a relief to escape to the less touristy areas of Dorsoduro, Santa Marta and Santa Croce. Piazza San Marco may encapsulate the timeless splendour of Venice but the true Italy lies in the little and comparatively plain Campo Santa Margarita where it’s a wash at night with students, Italians and backpacks. While your there pick up some gelato from “Il Doge”, its just about the best in all Italy (in my very humble opinion anyway).
Being on a budget, Venice may not have been the smartest option but I made it worked. Venice is full of cheap options outside the main drag and there is always the water boat markets, grocery shops and market squares. You will be hard pressed to escape tomato, cheese and carbs but who really cares about that anyway? €1 lunch? Yes please!
While in Venice however I seemed to experience quite a few strikes. First it was the vaporetti, which meant I took a full and undiluted day of walking around Venice. Next it was the trains, resulting in a three hour struggle across canals to find alternative travel. This all led to an new appreciation for walking never ending, winding cobble streets and climbing many bridges from to move 100 meters. However, a virtue of this, is getting lost and getting lost means you get to know all the back streets and cheap eats, attractions and sights.
From my 4 days in Venice I have compiled a list of my 10 favourite things to do and see that cost less than lunch. They a re as follows:
1.) Sit in a little Italian cafe and drink Campari/ Aperol Spritz over ice while eves dropping the Italian conversations next to you, often involving a good scandalous affair.
2.) Take the number 1 or 2 vaporetto down the grand canal at night. Its a fraction of the price of a gondola ride for pretty much the same experiences so long as you don’t mind sharing your seat with a nonna and her shopping.
3.) Grab a 4€ pizza from one of the many hole-in-the-wall joints in the backstreets and sit by the canal while you feel superior to all the tourists eating their 30 euro pizza in Piazza San Marco.
4.) Find an empty jetty under the Rialto Bridge and set up a picnic while watching the busiest street in Venice, which happens to be on water, how cool is that?
5.) Put down the guide book and map just to get lost and explore every picture perfect aspect of Venice. Down side canals you will find quiet piazzas, hidden gardens, vintage shops, coffee, gelaterias, art galleries, open old churches with a lost Grand Master’s paintings and markets teaming with morning hustle.
6.) Head to the islands around Venice like Murano for a cheaper, less crowded adventure.
7.) Find a quiet corner of San Marco Basilica and wonder at the millions of tiny coloured glass that make up the ceiling scape.
8.) Wake up early and join the locals for espresso, cappuccino and cannoli at the bar while discussing the latest in football scores.
9.) Trawl through centuries of treasures in the antique and vintage shops. You may just find an old Fendi or Sophia Loren style 50’s dress.
10.) Make friends with the private taxi/boat drivers outside the expenive hotels and you may just score yourself a free luxury lap.
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